Great Smoky Mountains National Park – Day 1

My first step into this glorious park felt like the weight of the world was lifted off my shoulders, and that I was on top of the world.

April 22nd, 2019

I started out the day early by waking up to birds chirping on the rail by my hotel door at 6am. It’s all I needed to get going. Enthusiasm was running through me like never before. A most adventurous and physical day was upon me.

Day 1

Rainbow Falls Trail

(2.7 miles up, 2.7 down = 5.4 miles total)

I came to the trailhead parking, but not before having a wild turkey great me on the road. I thought, “Oh wow, wildlife is already present. Maybe I will get to see a bear for the first time.”

I park and notice that I was the fourth car in the lot at 730am. I grab my daypack, filled with an Osprey 3L bladder, and two bottles of water. There were 3 different trails to take, Trillium Gap, Rainbow Falls, and the Bull Head. I soon learned that the other cars parked had taken the other two trails, because no one was on Rainbow Falls as I went up it at a very fast pace.

Not too much after I started I came to one amazing mountain river.

I stopped, took in the fresh mountain river air, and then continued on. Up a set of steps, around some switchbacks, and up some more steps. I soon took note of the incredible work that park employees do to keep their trails groomed. The appreciation of it goes unnoticed.

Then comes the next corner. I turn and 20 feet away stand two bucks. No sooner than I could my phone out, one of them turned the next corner. The other just looked at me and casually walked around the corner. As I would continue walking, they would stop and look back then continue on slowly while letting me get within 10 feet most of the time. They led me up the trail for a few hundred feet. Then they let me catch up, and take profiled shots of them from 5 feet away. My guess is that they were waiting for me to feed them. I said goodbye and moved on.

A little further up, I came to my first log crossing of the day. Again, good craftsmanship.

By this time, I was about 1.5 miles up the mountain. The sun was rising, and the view that came next was quite picturesque.

Once I snapped out of a metaphoric state, I carried on. My experience thus far in The Smokies was absolutely glorifying. The sheer beauty of this forest swallows your mind into oblivion.

Here is the single most important tip to follow on any hike.

I cannot begin to tell you of how many disasters I’ve heard of and witnessed from friends and fellow hikers by going off trail even for 1 second. If you haven’t heard of an incident, I suggest you turn on the news. There are reports almost daily of hikers getting lost, attacked, and bit by a venomous snake. Some even step on hidden wild game traps and break their legs. Please stay on the trail my friends.

The second most important rule to follow is to Leave No Trace.

I made it. At last, what I thought was Rainbow Falls.

Here is where the mistake I made came into play. (Do your research a bit longer!)

I was coordinating the trail through a previous one on AllTrails. What happened is that the individual who recorded it, stopped here and turned back. When in all actuality, you have to go .2 miles further to see the REAL Rainbow Falls. Looks like I will be going back soon to correct this catastrophic mistake.

On the way back down, I must have ran into 25-30 hikers coming up. I no sooner get to the parking lot, and saw it had been filled to capacity with cars lining the road in both directions.

This brings me to the third lesson. Always get to the trailhead at sunrise. Especially a popular one, in a popular park like this. You may not find parking close, if at all. You’ll be thankful as you get to enjoy the fruits of nature before anyone else that day.

Chimney Top Trail

(up and back, 4.1 miles total)

I left Rainbow Falls, and proceeded to the nearest store to get some powder to prevent chaffing, and a bottle for water. Somehow, I had misplaced the powder and didn’t bring it on the trip. The bottles I completely forgot. (Do a checklist!) I then headed over to Chimney Top parking.

Ha! I hit heavy traffic, and got there later than I had hoped. I was forced to park on the berm. I grabbed my day pack, two bottles of water, and cracked open a Bang energy drink. I was told by some local hikers that this was the steepest incline of any hike in the park. Hence, I added some boost to my system to propel right up it. It made no difference. I ended up stopping in a few places to catch my breath. Everyone did. Some were more gassed out then others. Steps and more steps. They just kept coming. Here are some photos.

As you see, sheer beauty lies within this park. You cross a few bridges, then start heading up the steep trail.

At last, you make it to the viewing platform! The trail is then gated off as you see due to a forest fire last year. They need to let the vegetation grow back without hikers trampling or camping on the buds.

What you see next is Chimney Top dwarfed by Mount Le Conte (the knob to the right is the top). That is where I was headed next.

Mount Le Conte

Alum Cave Trail (5.5 miles up)

I took note of the time, and literally trail ran down Chimney Top trail. I made it down in twice as fast as it took to get up. Kids, do not try this. It is very dangerous. Only experienced trail runners in rough terrain should attempt it.

I then made the short drive over to Alum Cave Trailhead parking. I shortly notice hundreds of cars lining the road. I pull into the lower lot, and to my luck, a spot was open. I get out, and start swapping over items from my daypack to the REI Flash 65L backpack I was using for this mountain adventure.

After a few minutes, the pack was ready. Having moved it from my trunk, I noticed it weighed in the neighborhood of 50lbs. I thought I must be nuts, but having not truly backpacked a mountain before, it was decided that it was best to pack for the worst case scenario.

I quickly ate, drank, and then put on my Duluth Trading Co. Armachillo Bandana. On went my pack, and up the trail I went.

Immediately, I knew why this was voted as one of the Top 25 Trails in the USA. It was like a forest wonderland.

I attempted to get more photos as I went on, but so many people kept getting in the way. I wasted no time, and kept moving on as I was trying to get the to the top by sundown.

As I went, I couldn’t help but recognizing the heavy load on my back, and why I did not contemplate this scenario before I tackled 10 miles of other mountainous trails prior in the day. Bound and determined I was.

Suddenly, I come to this set of steps leading in to a cave.

I went in and up and saw this hiker resting. He was writing in a journal at such a peaceful and scenic spot. I admired him, and in return he wished me luck. His view is featured below.

I went on and came to more steps.

I climb the steps, turn some corners, and found Alum Cave. A sign there read “Mt Le Conte Summit 2.7” more miles.

Here is where pure adrenaline took over. It is also the spot, where between here and the top, I lost my black Under Armour ball cap. Wishing good fortunes to the one who found it.

As I kept charging upward, I would have to stop and take a few breaks. I had to relax my muscles, catch my breath, and take in the sheer beauty of the Smoky Mountains.

From this view, I knew I was close to the top as it stands higher than all the others in the photo. I pick up my pack, put it back on, and start trekking up the mountain again. After 15 minutes or so, I hear a sound behind me. I stop, turn around, and a fox is standing 50 feet down the trail looking at me. I went to grab my phone, and it ran off to the side and down the mountain.

With a sigh of relief, I had finally made it to the top. The trail to the shelter where I was staying passes by the dining lodge and cabins. It is the highest lodge in the US at over 6,400 feet.

I made my way down the trail to the reserved shelter only to find that the tarp had been covering the front already. I take off my pack, set it down, and go in. Here, there was a family of 3 already sleeping at 7pm. From what the others at the lodge told me, the 3 had came up the same trail I did and were thoroughly exhausted.

I took my sleeping pad and sleeping bag out, and claimed a spot in the shelter on the lower level next to the wall. I then hung my backpack up on the bear cables 25 feet up so bears can’t access them.

I then went over to the lodge to see if they were still serving dinner and wine. Two fellas by the names of Chris and Josh told me that “last call” was just announced moments earlier. I asked a server and was told the same. Darn. Here I was hoping to celebrate my long hard day with wine. HA!

Unbeknownst to me, a table of gracious ladies behind me had heard my story of my long day and unselfishly gave me some giant chocolate chip cookies that were served earlier. So appreciative I was. I did bring a mini stove and food to cook, but after that long day, do you blame me?

There was nothing like a day of over 15 miles of mountain terrain hiked, and relaxing to a priceless view of The Smokies from a deck at 6,400 feet up. Chris and Josh, thank you for the most entertaining conversations. You guys rock. Godspeed in Florida.

I went back to the shelter, grabbed my hoody, and headed over a few tenths of a mile to Cliff Top for an unprecedented sunset. What came next, absolutely blew my mind away.

With those images, came an end to Day 1 in The Smokies. What a glorious one it was!